One wood-fired grill, thirty-four seats, and a menu that changes when the growers change it.
How we ended up cooking this way
We took the wall out between the kitchen and the room in 2019 and have never regretted it. The grill is the loudest thing in here and the second loudest is the conversation.
Everything comes off the fire, which sounds like a constraint and behaves like one. It is why the menu is six starters, six mains and four puddings rather than thirty of each, and why it is rewritten on a Tuesday.
What that means in practice
- The menu is written the morning it is served
- There is no tasting menu and no dress code
- The bar takes walk-ins every night
- A discretionary eighteen per cent goes entirely to the people who cooked and served
The best fire cooking in the city, in a room that has no interest in being the most expensive one you have ever sat in.
Westword, Restaurant of the Year